Building Your First Mechanical Keyboard: A Complete Beginner's Guide

Building a custom mechanical keyboard feels intimidating until you understand what you actually need. There are only five core components — and once you know what each one does, the whole thing clicks into place.

This guide walks you through every part, what to look for, and roughly what to budget. By the end you'll know exactly what to buy.

What You Need (And What Each Part Does)

1. Switches — The Heart of the Board

Switches sit under every key and determine how typing feels and sounds. They come in three main types:

• Linear — smooth keystroke with no bump or click. Quiet and fast. Great for gaming and people who don't want auditory feedback. Example: Cherry MX Red, Gateron Yellow.
• Tactile — a small bump partway through the keystroke that tells you the key registered without bottoming out. Great for typing. Example: Cherry MX Brown, Topre.
• Clicky — tactile bump plus an audible click. Satisfying, but loud. Not office-friendly. Example: Cherry MX Blue, Kailh Box White.

For a first build, most people are happy with a linear or light tactile. Browse our switch catalog to compare options side by side.

Budget: $0.30–$1.50 per switch. Most keyboards need 60–110 switches depending on size.

2. PCB — The Skeleton

The PCB (printed circuit board) is what the switches mount onto and what sends signals to your computer. Two things matter here:

• Layout — the PCB determines your keyboard's physical size and which keys you can have. A 60% PCB won't fit arrow keys; a TKL won't fit a numpad. Decide your size first. (See our keyboard size guide if you're unsure.)
• Hot-swap vs soldered — hot-swap PCBs let you pull switches in and out without a soldering iron. For a first build, hot-swap is strongly recommended. It means you can change switches whenever you want without tools.

Browse our PCB catalog with filters for size and hot-swap support.

Budget: $50–$150 for a quality PCB.

3. Case — The Shell

The case holds everything together and has the biggest impact on how the keyboard sounds. Material matters:

• Plastic — affordable, deadens sound, good for beginners.
• Aluminum — premium feel, often produces a higher-pitched sound. Heavier.
• Polycarbonate — increasingly popular, produces a deeper "thocky" sound.

The case must match your PCB's layout. A 65% PCB needs a 65% case. Browse our case catalog.

Budget: $40–$200+. This is where prices vary most.

4. Keycaps — What Your Fingers Touch

Keycaps are more than cosmetic. The profile (height and shape) affects how typing feels, and the material affects durability and texture.

• PBT — durable plastic that doesn't shine over time. Slightly textured feel. Recommended for most people.
• ABS — smoother, develops shine ("shine-through") with use. Common on budget sets.

Profile is a separate decision — OEM, Cherry, SA, DSA, and MT3 all feel different. See our full keycap profiles guide.

Keycaps must be compatible with MX-style stems if your switches are MX-style (most are). Browse our keycap catalog.

Budget: $30–$150+ for a full keycap set.

5. Stabilizers — Keeping Large Keys Stable

Stabilizers (stabs) go under large keys like spacebar, shift, enter, and backspace to prevent wobbling. Most keyboards use PCB-mount screw-in stabilizers, which are more stable than clip-in.

The single most impactful upgrade for sound and feel is lubing your stabilizers before installing them. It takes 20 minutes and completely eliminates rattle. See our switch lubing guide for technique.

Browse our stabilizer catalog.

Budget: $10–$30 for a quality set.

Optional But Recommended

• Cable — a nice coiled USB-C cable doesn't affect performance but completes the build aesthetically. Browse cables.
• Foam or tape mod — putting masking tape or foam on the back of the PCB deadens the sound. Free to cheap.
• Desk mat — protects the desk and reduces noise from the case hitting a hard surface. Browse deskmats.

What to Buy First

Start with a 60% or 65% hot-swap kit if you're unsure about layout. It's the most compact option that still covers everything you actually type, and hot-swap means you're not committed to your first switch choice.

Total budget for a solid first build: $150–$250. You can go cheaper with plastic cases and basic keycaps, or more expensive quickly once you catch the hobby bug.

The Build Process

1. Test every switch position on the PCB with a switch tester or wire before installing anything.
2. Lube and assemble stabilizers first, then install them on the PCB.
3. Clip or snap switches into the PCB (or solder if non-hot-swap).
4. Seat the PCB into the case and screw it down.
5. Install keycaps.
6. Plug in and test every key using a tool like Keyboard Tester.

That's it. A straightforward first build takes an afternoon. Enjoy the result — there's nothing quite like typing on something you assembled yourself.