How to Lube Mechanical Switches: A Step-by-Step Guide

If there's one thing the mechanical keyboard community agrees on, it's this: lubing your switches is worth it. A well-lubed switch is noticeably smoother, quieter, and more satisfying than the same switch stock. The difference is not subtle.

The good news is it's not difficult. You need about 2-3 hours for a full 65-key board, a few inexpensive tools, and the right lube. Here's exactly how to do it.

What You Need

Lube — the most important choice. The two main options:

• Krytox 205g0 — the gold standard for linear switches. Thick, stays in place, produces a very smooth "thocky" sound. Not suitable for tactile or clicky switches (kills the bump).
• Tribosys 3203 or 3204 — thinner than 205g0. Better for tactile switches where you want to preserve the bump while still reducing scratch.

Switch opener — a small plastic tool that pops the switch housing open without a screwdriver. Costs about $5–10 online. You can use a flathead screwdriver but you'll scratch the housing.

Small paint brush — size 0 or 00. Cheap synthetic brushes from any art supply or hardware store work fine.

Stem holder (optional but helpful) — holds the switch stem while you brush lube onto it. A switch film remover or a small piece of film can substitute.

Switch films (optional) — thin plastic sheets between the top and bottom housing that reduce wobble and change the sound slightly. Worth adding if you're already opening the switch.

Which Switches Should You Lube?

• Linear switches: Yes, always. Lube everything except the legs on the spring (some people bag-lube the spring separately).
• Tactile switches: Lube the housing and spring. Do NOT lube the legs of the stem — this is where the tactile bump comes from. Light lube on everything else.
• Clicky switches: Generally, don't lube. You can lube the housing lightly to reduce scratch, but clicky mechanisms should not be touched.

Step-by-Step

1. Open the Switch

Insert the switch opener into the two slots on the sides of the bottom housing and press gently until the top housing pops off. Set the top housing aside. The stem will slide out; keep track of it.

Inside you'll see:

• Top housing — the part with the LED hole
• Bottom housing — the part with the PCB pins
• Stem — the cross-shaped piece that moves when you press the key
• Spring — the coiled piece around the stem post

2. Lube the Spring

Pinch the spring between two fingers and spin it lightly on your brush, or use the bag-lube method:

Bag lube: Put all your springs in a small zip-lock bag, add a small amount of lube (literally one rice-grain drop per 100 springs), seal the bag, and shake for 30 seconds. Quick and even.

3. Lube the Bottom Housing

Dip your brush lightly in lube — less than you think you need. Wipe it on the inner rails where the stem legs travel. Apply a thin, even coat. You're filling microscopic surface roughness, not smearing it in thick.

Lube the inside walls where the stem sides travel. Light coat everywhere the stem makes contact with the housing.

4. Lube the Stem

This is where most of the difference comes from.

Hold the stem by the cross (the MX stem part) and brush lube on:

• The two legs (the tabs that stick down) — full coat on sides
• The front and back of the stem body — thin coat

For tactile switches: Do NOT lube the legs. The legs create the bump. Lube anywhere else on the stem.

5. Lube the Top Housing

Light coat on the inner rails, same as the bottom housing. Less important than the bottom, but worth doing while it's open.

6. Reassemble

Drop the spring back in, place the stem in (the cross goes up, toward the LED hole), and snap the top housing back on. You should hear a satisfying click as it seats.

If you're using switch films, place the film on the bottom housing before snapping the top on. It seats between the two housing halves.

7. Test Before Installing

Press the reassembled switch a few times. It should feel smooth and consistent with no grinding or scratching. If you feel a rough spot, you may have missed a surface or used too little lube.

Common Mistakes

Too much lube is the most common error. Too much lube makes the switch feel mushy and kills the sound. When in doubt, use less. You can always open it up and add more; removing lube is harder.

Lubing tactile bumps kills the tactile feedback. If you lubed an MX Brown and it now feels like a bad linear, you got lube on the stem legs. Clean with isopropyl alcohol and retry.

Inconsistent coats produce inconsistent switches. Work in batches and keep your brush charge consistent — dip once, do three or four stems, dip again.

How Long Does It Take?

For a first-timer: expect 3–4 hours for a 65-key board (~68 switches). With practice this drops to 90 minutes. It's meditative work once you have a rhythm — many people listen to podcasts or watch a film while lubing.

Is It Worth It?

Yes. A stock Gateron Yellow and a lubed Gateron Yellow are meaningfully different switches. The lubed version is smoother, quieter (especially on the return stroke), and more satisfying to type on. For a $0.30 switch, spending 2 minutes lubing it is an excellent return.

For more expensive switches like Holy Pandas or Topres, proper lubing technique is even more important — these switches are designed to be lubed in specific ways documented by their manufacturers.

Once you lube, you won't go back to stock. It's that kind of upgrade.

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